The 3 Passes of Empordà that nobody will tell you about
- Joan de Gravel House
- 5 days ago
- 3 min read
The Alt Empordà region hides within its borders some ports that combine accessibility with charm. Here we explore three of them, sharing their details, impressions, and a touch of history.
Coll de Coustouges: nature, border and non-stop climb
The ascent from the Empordà plain (Pont de Molins) would be 36km and +1000m of elevation gain, very typical numbers and similar to great mountain passes, such as the Col du Grand Colombier.
The climb takes place through wooded and gentle areas and although it is not an extreme climb, it offers steady stretches that allow you to get into a rhythm.
A historical curiosity: the pass marks one of the ancient routes between Spain and France, so after the climb you reach the small village of Coustouges, a peaceful corner of the Vallespir. From there, after crossing the border, you can glimpse a more Pyrenean landscape, giving a very particular feeling of a mountain pass "to another world."
For many cyclists from Empordà, Coustouges is that weekend climb, long enough to train for elevation gain and do a route of more than 4 hours.
Coll de Banyuls: mountains, sea and a border past steeped in history
This pass, which connects the Espolla area with the crest of the Sierra de l'Albera mountain range (and France), has its summit at around 357–362 m above sea level.
From the gentler side (Espolla), the climb is about 11 km long, with an elevation gain of +293 m and an average gradient of 3.3%, although some sections can exceed 14% on its steepest ramps. The French side (from Banyuls-sur-Mer) is much steeper, but offers switchbacks in true Giro d'Italia style.
What makes Banyuls special isn't a dramatic change in elevation, but rather the blend of nature, sea, and history. Upon reaching the summit, you can breathe in the Mediterranean breezes, sense the proximity of the sea, and glimpse that transition between mountain and coast typical of the Albera region.
Historically, this pass has served as a border crossing, a route through the area, and an escape route during times of conflict. Many cyclists who travel it feel a connection to the past: routes of exile, ancient paths, a route that has always held significance beyond sport.
Sant Pere de Rodes: the great viewpoint of the Empordà
If there's one mountain pass in the Empordà region that combines legend, scenery, and elevation gain, it's Sant Pere de Rodes. The climb from Vilajuïga is one of the most well-known among local cyclists, covering 6.6 km with a 512m elevation gain. It's not an excessively long ascent, but it is consistent and offers stunning panoramic views. Each bend reveals a more expansive vista of the Empordà, the coves of Cap de Creus, and the vastness of the Mediterranean.
The climb becomes especially thrilling when, among the final bends, the monastery appears crowning the mountain. Few mountain passes allow you to reach one of Catalonia's most important Romanesque sites by bike, a place where wind, stone, and the sea take center stage. On clear days, Sant Pere de Rodes offers one of the most expansive and spectacular views of the Empordà region, which is why many cyclists consider it a "must-do" climb at least once a year.
Conclusion: Three mountain passes to understand the Empordà region by bicycle
Each of these mountain passes reveals a different side of the Empordà. Coll de Coustouges offers immersion in nature and a leisurely pace; Coll de Banyuls, Mediterranean epics and a rugged landscape steeped in history; and Sant Pere de Rodes, the majesty of the Empordà open to the sea and the thrill of reaching the summit next to an ancient monastery.
For any cyclist who wants to truly discover the Empordà region, these three mountain passes will reveal a new cycling paradise. At Gravel House, we want to be part of that adventure, so don't hesitate to contact us to organize your next cycling getaway in the Empordà.
We hope you can discover it soon!
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